Wallis Warfield Simpson was the twice-divorced American for whom Edward VIII gave up his throne in December 1936. Their marriage caused a constitutional crisis and was called the wedding of the century, and Mainbocher’s wedding gown has been credited as the most copied dress in history.

Wallis was born in 1896. Her father died young and money was short, which shaped the disciplined style that became known as ‘hard chic’. Her mother made most of her clothes and passed on high standards of workmanship, and Wallis became skilled at analysing and adapting styles. In 1914 she caused a sensation at her coming out in a dress copied from one worn by the tango dancer Irene Castle, and showed an early eye for colour in a gown with a gold bodice and a flame-red georgette skirt. By mixing and matching her day wear and adding neat, unusual accessories, she stretched her wardrobe and stood out in a snobbish society.

After her first marriage ended, her years in China were spent gathering ideas from the women around her and perfecting her immaculate grooming. That ‘tidy as a tinker’ look and her willowy figure made her the epitome of 1930s chic. Unable to afford couture, she relied on discipline to dress perfectly as she rose through diplomatic circles and café society into the Prince of Wales’ circle. Once she could buy couture, her style barely changed: strictly tailored day wear and fantasy for the evening, a backdrop for the ever more fabulous jewellery the Duke gave her.

The Duchess was quick to spot talent and championed innovative designers such as Dior and Balenciaga, keeping her on the Best Dressed lists for over 30 years.

In the afternoon, Sue Seeger, Course Leader in Fashion and Creative Arts, spoke about the London couture house of Lachasse.